The Perfume Pagoda is actually a group of temples and caves in the rocks of the limestone mountain Huong Tich Son (Mountain of Fragrances). The pagoda is located in the province of Hoa Binh, in the My Duc district, 60 km southwest of Hanoi. Most cave pits were built in the 17th century.
The Perfume Pagoda is reached by road or river. The nicest way to get there is to rent a boat in the village of My Duc. Women row the boats over the Yen-Vi (Swallowtail River), along rocky rocks and green rice fields. The boat docks at the walled Thien Chua (Pagoda leading to Heaven). From this pagoda, a steep mountain trail leads to the top of the Huong Tich Son.
Along the way you pass several cave pagodas. The Ten-Zone Pagoda has some stone images. The Giai Oan Chua (Pagoda of Purification) draws pilgrims who cleanse their soul or seek cure for their diseases. Childless couples pray for posterity.
Perfume Pagoda in the Huong Tich Cave
The Huong Tich Cave at the top is beautifully located. In this stalactite cave there is the Chua Huong Tich or Perfume Pagoda. Its construction began in 1575. In the sanctuary are images of Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara and his female counterpart Quan Am, the goddess of mercy. The bronze statue of the goddess that was placed in the temple in 1767 was soon robbed by the Tay-Son rebels and melted to weapons. The stone statue dates back to 1793. In the second and third lunar months, usually March-April, a festival takes place around the temple that attracts numerous pilgrims.
The boat ride from My Duc to the jetty at Thien Chua takes about 1.5 hours. The journey to the top of Huong Tich Son and back takes about three hours. It is also possible to complete the last piece to the top per cable way.